- Open Access
- Authors : Varun Shekhar , Rakesh Bhandari
- Paper ID : IJERTV11IS070159
- Volume & Issue : Volume 11, Issue 07 (July 2022)
- Published (First Online): 26-07-2022
- ISSN (Online) : 2278-0181
- Publisher Name : IJERT
- License: This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License
Problems of Garment Textile Industry in Bhilwara
Varun Shekhar*1, Rakesh Bhandari2
Sangam University
Abstract: In our country, the Textile industry occupies an essential place in the country's economy because it assists the industrial output, employment generation, and foreign interaction revenues. In today's time, the primary concern for any garment manufacturing industry is the defects that arise during the manufacturing cycle, and garment faults are one of the most crucial aspects of the apparel manufacturing industry because it negatively impacts real productivity. The primary aim of this research paper is to analyze the issues confronted by various garments industries and then rank these problems according to their effects on the production cycle and product. These goals were examined with the garment worker working in the garment industry and were permitted to respond confidentially by telephone, other than the option to provide an email address to procure a complimentary copy of the results. Totally of 150 submissions were compiled. However, only 142 were correct, and eight were incorrect due to inappropriate filling in the data gathering sheet in the survey assessment. Hence the submissive rate for this survey was deemed to be successful 150 respondents
Keywords: Textiles, garment defects, ranking, Lean wastes.
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INTRODUCTION
In India, the textile industry encloses diverse industrial divisions which operate a comprehensive combination of natural and synthetic fibers to create fabrics. Generally, the textile industry can be extensively categorized into two kinds, the collected mill sector and the cluttered mill sector. As the textile industry contributed significantly to the national economy, initiatives are being driven to take crucial and satisfactory efforts to lure investment and promote overall evolution and development in this sector. The textile or apparel industry primarily involves manufacturing yarn and cloth and the following design or production of clothing and distribution. The raw material may be natural or synthetic, utilizing by-products of the chemical industry. The city of Bhilwara, located in the Mewar province of Rajasthan, is a prominent epicenter for textiles in India. The textile industry is a primary sector in the district. The location has more than 400 production units, pushing it into an influential textile center specializing in artificial materials for trousers. The methods of textile consisted of various techniques such as spinning, weaving, and processing carried out in the mills in Bhilwara. Hence, the enterprise is also the most prominent job generated in the unorganized and organized sector, with over 75,000 people working in the industry to raise the State's economy.
The district is the motherland of as many as 16 spinning mills in an enormous sector and five open spinning divisions, which produce approximately two lakh tones of polyester/viscose and cotton yarn yearly. With such a colossal production churning out per annum, Bhilwara district sole is stated to satisfy 44 percent of the State's yarn manufacturing capability.
Bhilwara has a rich chronology of textiles dating to the 60s, when 200- second hand looms from the British Raj was being operated, and numerous cotton yarn-manufacturing factories were working. But it was exclusively when, in 1988, removed the Industrial licenses to provide momentum to the industrial blossoming the textile industry thrived. Between the years 1988 to 1990, installed over 70 weaving divisions. Bhilwara has become a vital textile center in India. Technologies like air jet spinning are employed exclusively in Bhilwara, and it is the only district manufacturing silk yarns in the State of Rajasthan. Around 70 crore meters of various blends of polyester fabrics such as polyester- wool, polyester-viscose-modal, polyester-viscose-elastane, and polyester-wool elastane are being manufactured in the district. Bhilwara is also gradually thumping the prospect in home textiles and home furnishings.
Pair of institutions is manufacturing high-quality and usable yields like a flock, Velcro fabrics, thermal curtains, and upholstery fabrics. Giving constant aid from the state government and bodies like the Mewar Chamber of Commerce and Industry has devised the town to reach distinction in export matters. Moreover, the central government has delivered economic aid via Market Access Initiative Scheme for generating technologically concentrating services. Beneath Aid to States for Expanding Export Infrastructure and other Allied Activities (ASIDE), special assistance is supplied to the town of Bhilwara for creating infrastructure structures for more good manufacturing capabilities. Barring this, the considerable substantial advantage of the city has been the assertion of Bhilwara as one of the Mega Power loom Cluster in the year 2009 by the Ministry of Textiles. Under this, we will deliver a 70-crore grant for enhancing Bhilwara textile testing structures, export advancement structures, and infrastructures. Undoubtedly, the district of Bhilwara has a significant possibility and is a well-known textile destination not simply in the country but is also cultivating traction in the global market because of its broad export market.. At the current period the performance of many garment industries hinges on many parameters such as the caliber of garments products, production cost and time etc. These parameters are hindered due to different faults arising in the sewing workstation. Defects in the garment industry can lead to reduction in the economy of the garment industry. Due to these consequences the garment organization are chosen for the purpose of the research for eradicating the garment wastes by applying Lean tools and Techniques in the sewing workstation referred through study of old literature. So this research try to find out the common scenario of garment industry of chosen garment
industry by illustrating the Lean philosophy
-
STATEMENT OF THE PROBLEM
In India, the textile sector is one of the country's largest manufacturing sectors and plays a substantial position in exporting the products. For further growth of the textile industry, it is crucial to know the current problems the textile industries are facing. The difficulties can arise, such as waste due to overproduction, Manual handling, Government Regulations, Labour turnover, many procedures, and the Rate of interest being too high. Therefore the primary aim of this research is to sort out the problems faced by the textile industry according to their prominence in the garment production cycle.
-
SCOPE OF THE ANALYSIS
The research primarily concentrates on the garment-textile units encountering troubles during the manufacturing of garments. The elements which may construct the issues for garment textile units are Labour, unwanted transportation, overproduction, over processing, unwanted motion. This has been endured as the central priority of the study. The opinions of Owners belonging to various strata of Bhilwara city are taken into the narrative in this analysis.
-
OBJECTIVES OF THE STUDY
The goals of this analysis are as follows.
-
To analyze the problems faced by various small-scale garments textile units in Bhilwara.
-
To rank the multiple issues in the garment industry according to their significance during garment manufacturing.
-
-
LITERATURE REVIEW
The concept of Lean manufacturing was first discovered at Toyota motor company in 1950 by Taichi ohno according to Fricke (2010) as a progressive proficiency which hinges on the head and hand ideology of the artisans period, integrating it with the work rationalization and gathering line manufacturing and adding the principles of togetherness for improve production.
As said by Jonwal (2014) the definition of the Lean with reference to a person is Any human whose body does not have extra weight or the person whose body has zero fat. By virtue of this description the Lean is a scientific tool in which the target is to minimize the wastage during the production cycle and the ways to reduce the wastage are by better communication or understanding between different production workstation and by better use of resources during the production cycle and this result in the reduction of the manufacturing cost. By applying the concept of Lean it can results in the reduction in the human effort and production time and manufacturing space by 50%.
There is another definition of Lean according to Aitken(2011) in which the improvement of the business is not only aim, it is also to produce the required amount of confidence and it is a philosophy whose quality of execution in industry depends upon the top management. In the global market the garment industry of developing countries is facing the challenges from the garment industry of developed countries. The success of any garment industry depends on the optimum use of the resources and simultaneously doing a research for producing the
product in innovative way which results in increase in the productivity of garment industry but in India most of the garment industry is a small or medium scale industry and the processes these industry are using for the production are traditional and due to this these industry faces the problems such as high reworks, high amount of rejection, low productivity, unbalancing of workstation and longer manufacturing lead time and the issues of price and manpower.
A survey was done by Bheda(2002) with the target of finding the achieve productivity level, parameters associated and the possibilities for improvement by Indian garment industry and the relevant data was collected by doing the interview of three thousand active garment producer and thirty six producer of domestic and regional brands from major garment manufacturer such the likes of Bangalore, Bhilwara, Madurai, Delhi and eighty garment producing industry manufacturing ladies fabric top and having a capacity of more than thirty machines were selected by the assessment, cum-cuota sampling and the workers are interviewed for the purpose of surveying. The results disclosed that the efficiency of the garment industry was low. It has been found that the productivity of machines is 10.3 shirts per sewing machine per shift basis and the labour productivity was 8.03 shirts per shift basis. It showed there is a relation between machines, workers, and operators.
-
METHODOLOGY OF THE STUDY
This study was taken out in Bhilwara city from November 2020 to March 2020 and lasted five months. This analysis is based on a questionnaire method. The set of questions is sent to different medium- scale textile industries in Bhilwara. The collective quantitative data shows a considerable detailed waste in the manufacturing process related to the garments. This process was found to be the most refined data gathering technique. Some methods, such as facilitating telephonic calls and dispatching aftermath letters, increased the response rate. The set of questions was crafted in consulting with garment manufacturing managers, supervisors, and chief executives of the garment industry who are primarily engaged in garment production. After deciding on a set of questions, it was sent to a textile employee, and their responses were gathered. Then by using statistical analysis, ranking of the Lean wastes decided to arise in the garment industry
-
LIMITATIONS OF THE STUDY
The constraints of the analysis are.
-
The sampling batch was limited to Bhilwara city only.
-
The specimen size was contented to 150 respondents solely.
-
The investigation has concentrated only on those companies whose assets amount between 30 lakhs to less than 5 crores only.
-
-
ANALYSIS AND INTERPRETATION PERCENTAGE INVESTIGATION
-
MEASURES FOR WASTE OF OVERPRODUCTION
Table I. Percentage of Wastes from Respondents for Overproduction
S.No
Types of Over Production Waste
Particulars
Staunchly agree
Agree
Doubtful
Staunchly disagree
Disagree
Percentage
1
Unnecessary Inspection
48
43
3
32
16
64.08
2
Unleveled Planning
42
36
0
36
28
54.92
3
Distorted Work Load
44
26
4
42
26
49.29
4
Length Process Step
43
35
0
36
28
54.9
5
Mismanagement of Automation
38
37
2
31
34
52.8
Range
10
6
2
10
18
Average 55.19%
Minimum
38
26
2
31
16
Maximum
48
43
4
36
34
Sum
215
177
9
177
132
Mean
43
35.4
1.8
35.4
26.4
Standard deviation
3.224
5.46
1.124
3.878
5.85
Fig.1. Visual inspection for percentage of wastes obtained from Respondents for overproduction
Five important questions referred in Table I are raised to the respondents about waste of overproduction. This figure 7.1 provide the visualization of number of respondents affirmative or not affirmative to the fact that the overproduction is one of the primary wastes among the group of eight wastes arises in textile industry
Thus table demonstrate that valuation awarded from respondent for overproduction had a very large effect on staunchly agreeing (3.605) and agreeing (6.107)/staunchly disagreeing (4.335) and disagreeing (6.542) opinions. From the table I, 39.2 % of respondent emphasized that over production is one of the primary waste in garment production sector.
-
MEASURES FOR WASTE OF TRANSPORTATION
Transportation is defined as discharge to and from outside of the industry warehouse according to researcher Devadasan (2012). The price of transportation may rise due to extra refinishing of products and raw matters inventories. Hence it is required that manufacturing operation must be done near customer area. Five crucial questions described below in Table II are asked to the respondents concerning waste of transportation. The following figure 2 clearly describe the
percentage of respondent in agreement and disagreement with analysis that
Fig.2. Visual Identifications for Percentage of Wastes obtained from Respondents for Transportation.
Thus table demonstrate that valuation awarded from respondents for the transportation had a very large effect on the staunchly agreeing (5.1224) and areeing (7.2)/staunchly disagreeing (6.449) and disagreeing (6.4095) opinions. From the table II, 25.4 % of respondent emphasized that transportation is one of the primary waste in garment production sector.
-
MEASURES FOR WASTE OF DEFECTS
The large amount of production product and defective product can result in reduction in the profit of industry. Five crucial descriptions below in Table III are asked to the workers and management regarding waste of defects. The below figure 3 describe the maximum number of respondents accepting that the defect is one of the primary waste among the group of eight wastes in the manufacturing sector. Among five different types of defects all respondents accept that sewing defect is the most problematic and most crucial defect arise during manufacturing process.
Table II. Percentage of Wastes from Respondents for Transportation
S.No
Types of Transportation Waste
Particulars
Staunchly agree
Agree
Doubtful
Staunchly disagree
Disagree
Percentage
1
Poor plant layout
36
32
4
39
31
47.8
2
Poor understanding of the process flow of the production
32
26
4
41
39
40.8
3
Large storage area
28
26
5
43
40
38.02
4
Longer lead time
24
14
4
51
49
26.76
5
Large batch size
22
14
5
56
45
25.35
Range
14
18
1
17
14
Average 35.74
Minimum
22
14
4
39
31
Maximum
36
32
5
56
45
Sum
142
112
22
230
204
Mean
28.4
22.4
4.4
46
40.8
Standard deviation
5.12
7.2
.48
6.44
6.07
Table III. Percentage of Wastes from Respondents for
S.No
Types of Transportation Waste
Particulars
Staunchly agree
Agree
Doubtful
Staunchly disagree
Disagree
Percentage
1
Sewing defects
108
34
0
0
0
100
2
Seaming faults
54
46
2
22
22
70.4
3
Placement faults
47
40
3
32
32
61.26
4
Fabric faults
48
46
2
24
24
66.19
5
Embroider y faults
37
41
5
35
35
54.9
Range
71
12
5
35
24
Average 70.55
Minimum
37
34
0
0
0
Maximum
108
46
5
35
24
Sum
294
207
12
113
84
Mean
58.8
41.4
2.4
22.6
16.8
Standard deviation
25.19
4.45
1.62
12.28
8.634
Defects
Fig.3. Visual Identifications for Percentage of Wastes obtained from Respondents for Defects.
Thus Table III clearly reveals that ratings received from respondents for defects had a high impact on strongly agreeing (25.19) & agreeing (4.45) / strongly disagreeing (12.28) & disagreeing (8.624) opinions. From the Table, 70.55% of respondents expressed that defects are one of the most influential wastes in garment manufacturing firms.
-
MEASURES FOR WASTE OF INVENTORY
In most of the circumstances, the devised use-cost of the basic material in companies is 63.4%, though the actual use-cost of natural fabrics in apparel enterprises is 65.5%.Surplus stock stagnates the excess commodities in the store room without client orders. The extra labor leans on the number of products fabricated in every shift; regular attendance and operators' performance is among the reasons for elevated garment production, leading to a high inventory level. Shoddy logbook keeping, miscommunication with suppliers, customers, and inconsistent administration decisions will improve inventory levels. As the status of stock boosts, the cash-on-hand expense for preserving also expands. When entities stagnate in the storeroom, additional time is needed to divert the materials into the storehouse and out of storehouse sites to customers Damage to commodities in stock cumulates with stock level. Optimum stock is essential to control manufacturing operations effectively and lowest production leads periods in apparel
companies. Four influential questions viewed down in Table 7.4 are presented to the respondents about inventory waste. The following Figure 4 displays the number of respondents approving and dissenting that commodities are one of the effective wastes among eight wastes in the apparel manufacturing procedure.
Therefore Table IV apparently demonstrates that ratings acquired from respondents for products influenced strongly agreeing (3.39) & agreeing (7.79) / strongly disagreeing (4.92) & disagreeing(6.09) opinions. From the Table, 48.76% of respondents conveyed that commodities are one of the wastes in apparel manufacturing enterprises
Table IV. Percentage of Wastes from Respondents for
Inventory
S.No
Types of waiting
Particulars
Staunchly agree
Agree
Doubtful
Staunchly disagree
Disagree
Percentage
1
Poor forecasting
41
40
4
30
27
57.04
2
Unleveled scheduling
37
37
3
34
31
52.11
3
Unreliable shipment by supplier
34
36
3
39
30
49.29
4
Unbalanced Workload
32
20
4
43
43
36.6
Range
9
20
1
13
16
Average
Minimum
32
20
3
30
27
Maximum
41
40
4
43
43
Sum
144
133
14
146
131
Mean
36
33.25
3.5
36.5
32.75
Standard deviation
3.39
7.79
.5
4.92
6.09
Table V. Percentage of Wastes from Respondents for
Over Processing
S.No
Types of Over Processing Waste
Particulars
Staunchly agree
Agree
Doubtful
Staunchly disagree
Disagree
Percentage
1
Styles changes without process change
33
32
2
43
32
45.77
2
Lack of information about process
31
31
1
45
33
43.6
3
Redundant approvals
27
28
1
49
37
38.73
4
Over processing to accommodate expected down time
25
24
1
55
37
34.5
5
Customer true
requirement not properly defined
22
23
2
54
41
31.6
Range
11
9
1
12
9
Average 38.84
Minimum
22
23
1
43
32
Maximum
33
32
2
55
41
Sum
138
138
7
246
180
Mean
27.6
27.6
1.4
49.2
36
Standard deviation
3.9
3.61
.4898
4.74
3.22
Fig.4. Visual Identifications for Percentage of Wastes obtained from Respondents for waste of Inventory
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MEASURES FOR WASTE OF INVENTORY
Most of the manufacturing operations are critical to the lean approach, which minimizes the garment waste. Therefore, it is noteworthy to focus on all operations in the sewing unit as possible waste. Numerous literature assessments reveal that over processing is more critical to eradicating enterprise waste. Unfortunately, the procedures in approving the production method from top-level leadership in apparel enterprises are a non-value added exercise. Indecent processing, when the quality management division determines the defective entities, the goods need re-designing by the garment manufacturing companies. Five critical questions viewed below in Table V are presented to the workers concerning waste of over processing. The subsequent Figure 5 shows the number of respondents approving and dissenting to that over
processing is one of the wastes among eight wastes in the apparel manufacturing method.
Fig.5. Visual Identifications for Percentage of Wastes obtained from Respondents for waste for over processing
Therefore Table V apparently demonstrates that ratings acquired from respondents for products influenced strongly agreeing (3.9) & agreeing (3.61) / strongly disagreeing (4.74) & disagreeing(3.22) opinions. From the Table, 38.84% of respondents conveyed that over processing is one of the wastes in apparel manufacturing enterprises.
-
MEASURES FOR WASTE OF MOTION
Five critical questions viewed below in Table 7.5 are presented to the workers concerning waste of over processing. The subsequent Figure 6 shows the number of respondents approving and dissenting to that over processing is one of the wastes among eight wastes in the apparel manufacturing method.
Fig.6. Visual Identifications for Percentage of Wastes obtained from Respondents for waste of motion
Therefore Table VI apparently demonstrates that ratings acquired from respondents for products influenced strongly agreeing (8.53) & agreeing (8.78) / strongly disagreeing (8.51) & disagreeing(8.49) opinions. From the Table, 53.03% of respondents conveyed that over processing are one of the wastes in apparel manufacturing enterprises.
-
MEASURES FOR WASTE OF UNDERUTILIZATION OF EMPLOYEE
The primary challenge of the production manager is to allocate crucial assignment, relevant jobs, and challenging leadership to a distinct category of people utilized to achieve the purposes of garment firms such that customer is pleased. Five noteworthy questions below in Table VII are presented to the respondents concerning the utilization of workers. The subsequent Figure 7 indicates the number of responses agreeing and refusing to that underutilization of people is one of the influential wastes among eight wastes in the chosen institution.
Table VI. Percentage of Wastes from Respondents for
Motion
S.No
Types of Motion
Particulars
Staunchly agree
Agree
Doubtful
Staunchly disagree
Disagree
Percentage
1
A machine that unnecessary distances moved in garment
industries
51
49
4
21
17
70.04
2
Finding necessary equipment and tools for concern
Production process
44
45
4
27
24
61.2
3
Unnecessary motion from work place
41
28
3
32
28
55.63
4
Unplanned tool
47
28
5
47
35
38.73
5
Lack of space
31
24
5
47
35
38.73
6
Large items located
27
30
3
39
43
40.14
Range
24
25
2
26
26
Average 53.09
Minimum
51
24
3
21
17
Maximum
27
49
5
47
43
Sum
241
212
23
194
182
Mean
40.16
35.33
3.83
32.33
30.33
Standard deviation
8.532
8.78
.68
8.51
8.439
S.No
Types of Underutilization of people
Particulars
Staunchly agree
Agree
Doubtful
Staunchly disagree
Disagree
Percentage
1
Selection of the Production manager for proper responsibility
40
39
3
38
22
55.6
2
Selection of the Production manager is to allocate correct authorities
37
41
1
40
23
54.92
3
Selection of the Production manager is to allocate right jobs
32
32
2
51
35
45.07
4
Whether employee
possessing allotted practice- oriented job
28
29
1
54
30
40
5
Whether technique used to avoid underutilization of the people the scheduling of their assignments
35
27
4
53
33
36.6
Range
15
14
3
15
13
Average 46.43
Minimum
25
27
1
38
22
Maximum
40
41
4
53
35
Sum
162
168
11
236
143
Mean
32.4
33.6
2.2
47.2
28.6
Standard deviation
5.53
5.49
1.16
6.79
5.23
Table VII. Percentage of Wastes from Respondents for Under Utilization of Employee
Fig.7. Visual Identifications for Percentage of Wastes obtained from Respondents for Underutilization of People
Therefore Table VII apparently demonstrates that ratings acquired from respondents for products influenced strongly agreeing (5.53) & agreeing (5.49) / strongly disagreeing (6.79) & disagreeing(5.23) opinions. From the Table, 46.43% of respondents conveyed that under utilization of people is one of the wastes in apparel manufacturing enterprises.
-
MEASURES FOR WASTE OF WAITING
Waiting happens in companies because of different non-value added actions among production methods Devadasan (2012). Most of them contain non-availability of resources like workers, finished articles, and raw fabrics and variance of the program due to unregulated discharge of knowledge and materials. An optimum plan is to be developed to lessen waiting time, which repeatedly appears in institutions. In numerous garments, the waiting is inclined to take place in different procedures in the sewing units are noted in Table VIII. Arunagiri & Gnanavelbabu (2013) Indecisiveness will result in waiting for the service time, machine break time, and undesirable period for permission from higher officials. This excess time allocation for the operators to do the work supplements the overall time for waiting for the operation. The subsequent Figure 8 indicates the number of replies conforming and differing of that waiting is one of the significant wastes among eight wastes in a picked organization.
S.
No
Types of waiting
Particulars
Staunchly agree
Agree
Doubtful
Staunchly disagree
Disagree
Percentage
1
In sufficient servicing machines and equipm ents in garment manufacturing
25
24
1
53
39
34.5
2
Poor scheduling of production process
22
26
1
55
38
33.33
3
Improper arrangements of machines in garments for sequence process
20
18
1
60
43
26.76
4
Time taken for signature approval from higher officials
17
17
1
61
46
23.9
5
Lack of experience of supervisor
15
17
1
61
48
22.5
Range
10
9
0
8
10
Average 28.196
Minimum
15
17
1
53
38
Maximum
25
26
1
61
48
Sum
99
102
5
290
214
Mean
19.8
20.4
1
58
42.8
Standard deviation
3.54
8
1
3.25
3.86
Table VIII. Percentage of Wastes from Respondents for Waiting
Fig.8. Visual Identifications for Percentage of Wastes obtained from Respondents for waiting
Therefore Table VIII apparently demonstrates that ratings acquired from respondents for products influenced strongly agreeing (3.54) & agreeing (8) / strongly disagreeing (3.25) & disagreeing(3.86) opinions. From the Table, 28.196% of respondents conveyed that waiting are one of the wastes in apparel manufacturing enterprises.
-
-
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
In Table IX it that flaws, movement, and overproduction are actual waste that impacts the production in the apparel manufacturing technique. The commodities rank is after the first three critical lean wastes in chosen organizations. Nonetheless, for most of the apparel
industries, over processing is wholly vanished due to optimum scheduling and planning. The remnant waste in apparel like stock,
underutilization of workers, processing, transport, and waiting was ranked as 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8. Wastes 5, 6, 7, and 8 do not notably impact the production of the sewing unit, as demonstrated in Figure 9. The rank suggests out that those deficiencies emerge as an influential waste in the garment industries because the number of respondents thoroughly consents with 70.55%. Afterward, movement waste with 55.19%. The third significant waste in garments is overproduction with 53.09%. The above-mentioned spare waste is the slightest significant waste that influences productivity. This research article is specifically focused on the significant impact of the first three wastes as there is a limitation of time and the most appropriate lean tools to primary minimize the first three poor wastes at selected garments at Bhilwara.
Table IX. Percentage of Wastes from Respondents for Waiting
S.no
List of Lean wastes
Percentage
Ranking
1
Defects
70.55
1
2
Over production
55.19
2
3
Waste of motion
53.09
3
4
Inventory
48.76
4
5
Underutilization of employee
46.43
5
6
Over processing
38.84
6
7
Transportation
35.74
7
8
Waiting
28.196
8
Thus, Table IX apparently discloses that a ranking of different lean manufacturing wastes in apparel industries greatly influenced defects, movement, and overproduction of lean wastes than other wastes.
Fig.9. Visual Identifications for Percentage of Wastes obtained from Respondents for Lean wastes
-
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